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Thursday, October 14, 2010

Lanzarote Puerto Calero, 10 to 13 October 2010


Mike's sister Judith arrived at 2130 hrs 10 October by Easyjet - flight was amazingly 30 minutes early.


Rented a car from Hertz and have been revisiting some of the places we enjoyed when we were here in 2007.

The volcanic island of Lanzarote appears at first to be completely barren. However crops are grown here using special techniques such as the vines enclosed in shallow basalt walls.


One of our favourite places to visit is the former home of artist/ architect Cesar Manrique, born in Arrecife in 1919, died in a tragic car accident in 1992.


Similar to the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer who designed much of Brazilia, Cesar had played an important role in the development of Lanzarote. His former home created in the middle of a lava field just north of Arrecife, is a delight to wander around.


From the outside, the house is not particularly interesting, what makes it so special is that he has connected several large "gas bubbles" which existed under and around his house by stairways and tunnels in the rock creating magical living spaces.




The bubbles under the house are connected to bubbles outside the house where a luscious garden with pool has been created.

In the rooms above ground level he has made picture windows overlooking the lava,
indeed in one room the lave seems to be flowing into the room under the glass.



On a long wall in the garden is a colourful mosaic


Around the island there are various Manrique artworks along the road.
After this visit we drove to the north of the island on the way stopping for lunch at the old palm dotted town of Haria, the town where Cesar Manrique spent his last years.


Our objective was the Mirador del Rio, an old defence bunker carved into the top of the high cliffs with a spectacular view over the straits to the laidback island of Graciosa.
Once one enters the old bunker, one is in no doubt about who created the conversion, yes, Cesar Manrique.






On the way back to the boat we stopped off at a centre for Aloe Vero, the plant which some consider a panacea for many ailments.


Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Sail Fuerteventura Corralejo to Puerto Calero 8 to 10 October 2010


At 0730 hrs 8 October we were just about to leave pontoon to anchor off when the Corralejo Harbour Master came to us to say he had found a berth for us - very kind of him. So motored round to berth which was right in the corner between pontoon and harbour wall. Spent a relaxed day in Corralejo.

Next morning 9 October left this potentially tricky spot before the wind picked up and anchored in the harbour to stow ropes and fenders. Motored the mile or so to Isla del Lobos and anchored close to the lagoon and jetty (28deg 44.2N 013deg 49W in 6.5 meters water - good holding).

A bit rolly but better than expected. Snorkelled around the boat and saw many fish including a few Barracudas.

At 10.40 anchor up and part sailed/ part motored the 12 miles to Play Quemada on Lanzarote where we anchored for the night off the small fishing village (28deg 54.3N 013deg 44.1 W in 6.5 meters water - good holding).

Anchor up at 0820 10 October after a somewhat rolly night and motored the 2 miles to Puerto Calero Marina - (35 Euros/night with 10% discount for Noonsite).
P Calero is very busy at the moment as the RC 44 World Championship takes place 11 October with crews from around the world.

Friday, October 8, 2010

Sail Fuerteventura El Castillo to Corralejo 7 October 2010


Woke up to the forecast calm day 7/10 and had a leasurely stroll along the boulevard. Unexpectedly, the wind picked up around noon to a southerly 6 gusting 27 knots. As the harbour is a bit tricky to exit in such conditions, checked to see if we could stay another night - however, no cancellations for the sports fishing event so had to leave. At 1345 cast off and, thanks to some lee from the opposite sea wall, managed to manoeuvre out of the harbour without problem.

Had an enjoyable fast run northwards in the southerly 6 under full Genny and no mainsail making 6 to 7 knots.


The route took us past the airport .
We were not sure whether we would find a place in the commercial harbour of Rosario so telephone the most northerly harbour of Corralejo. With our smattering os Spanish we decided that the harbour master had said that he had room for us but were not completely sure.

The route through the reef filled El Rio Channel between Isla de Lobos and Corraljo takes one very close to the jetty on Lobos

Isla de Lobos with Lanzarote in the background
before turning onto a course of 280 degrees true which leads one safely between two impressive surf zones.
With the help of the harbour master and two helpers managed to moor alongside an upwind pontoon in the crowded harbour in the gusty wind.
Had a very pleasant meal out on a terrace under the stars overlooking the harbour .

We were lucky to have been given a spot to tie up - the marina is full and the place we are occupying is reserved for another boat so at 0800 this morning we have to leave - maybe anchor off if we can find a spot is in the crowded anchorage.

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Sail Furteventura 1, 5th to 6th October 2010


Leasurely start to the day - anchor up at 0945 and motored the few miles to Morra Jable where we anchored at 1130 just east of the harbour close to town and beach (28deg 02.1N 014deg 21.0W in 10m water) and had another swim .



Had intended staying overnight and celebrating our wedding anniversary ashore. However, 9.9HP outboard engine refused to start and , as we knew that our 4HP engine also had problems, decided to phone around to find mechanic. After lunch raised the anchor and motored the 17 miles or so to Grande Tarajal . Anchored in the bay just to the east of the harbour just outside the swimming area buoys at 1930 - anchor held on third attempt in 7m water (28deg 12.5N 014deg 01.1W). Slightly rolly night but OK.

0700 anchor up and left in dark for the 17 miles to Puerto El Castillo where we moored in the marina (37 euros/night) at 1000 hrs. German mechanic Andreas arrived by 1200 hrs and by the end of the day both outboards where back in operation - one had a faulty electric shut off switch, the other had a dirty carburettor. Bow thruster refused to return to its pod - found loose connection in toggle switch unit - now working again. Have to move on 7/10 as marina fully booked for major offshore fishing event.
The island is very barren and desert-like having very little rainfall. Every few miles one comes across huge holiday village apartment blocks , several of which are under construction/ awaiting better financial times.

Sail Gran Canaria Las Palmas to Fuerteventura 4 October 2010

Plans can be changed! The grib files showed that the NW-erly would not last for long before reverting to the more normal NNE. Also talked to another sailor who told us he had attempted the direct northern route from Las Palmas to Graciosa three times and had given up making little progress against current, wind and waves. So, we opted for the more pleasant southern option round the SW tip of Fuerteventura. Left Las Palmas just before light at 0645 and had a super fast beam reach in a NNW 4 to 5 with 2 reefs in main and full Genny - very pleasant.

Landfall Fuerteventura


Rounded Punta Jandia (SW tip of the island) around 15.00 hrs and were anchored off the village of Puertito just tucked around the point by 1530hrs - excellent holding in sand in 6.5 meters water (28deg 04.2N 014deg 30.0W.



At 25 deg C, the water was just warm enough to tempt us in and had a snorkel round the boat - first time in the water since the Bahamas - great feeling to be back in anchoring swimming mode again. Anchorage proved to be not too rolly overnight.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Cruising Plans Canaries 2 October 2010

We had a very enjoyable time with family and friends in the UK and the Netherlands and arrived back in Las Palmas on 20 September and were very happy to find Dutch Link afloat and looking the same as when we left her.

Since arriving back we have had a pleasant time pottering about the city and doing the odd job on the boat. The first of the 250-odd ARC boats (Atlantic Rally for Cruising boats) have started to arrive in the marina so it is time for us to leave and make room for them.

Our plan is to depart before first light on Monday 4th October and sail/motor the 120 nMile upwind and up current to the most NE-erly island of La Graciosa. Thereafter the plan is to visit all of the 8 major islands in the archipelago, arriving back in Las Palmas by around 10th December, a voyage of around 650 nMiles.


Bearing in mind the prevalent NE-erly wind and the SW-going current, we plan to visit the islands in the following order:-

- Gran Canaria, (Las Palmas )
- La Graciosa
- Lanzarote
- Fuenteventura
- Gran Canaria (south coast)
- Teneirfe (south coast)
- La Gomera
- El Hierro
- La Palma
- Tenerife (north Coast)
- Gran Canaria (Las Palmas)

That is the PLAN - but as we all know , plans are subject to change - particularly on a sailing boat!

Monday, August 23, 2010

Las Palmas 23 August 2010

Have not done much sightseeing since arriving here - we have been more involved with getting the boat ready to be left on its own for a few weeks. Fly to Bristol 24 August to see family and friends in UK and Holland. So blog unlikely to be updated till end of September.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Sail Madeira to Gran Canaria 16 to 18 August 2010




After filling up the diesel tanks we left smoke covered Funchal, Madeira at 09.30 am Monday 16 August. After a few miles we left the wind shadow of the island and the wind picked up to a steady NNE 5 beaufort, a perfect wind for our trip to the Canaries.

With just one reef in the main, Dutch Link was easily making 8 knots SOG on a broad reach. However, as we only needed 6 knots to reach Las Palmas by daybreak 48 hours later, we decided to take the strain off the boat, the crew and the autopilot and put in a second reef and partly furled Genny. By 0930 the next morning we passed the Selvagem group of rocky islets which, in the past, has claimed many wrecks.

Our invaluable AIS once more proved its worth as we crossed the busy channel between Gran Canaria and Tenerife in the early hours of Wednesday morning as we found ourselves in the middle of 3 ships. The Saga Odyssey , which was on a potential collision course answered my VHF call and steered a few degrees to starboard to clear our stern by a few miles.
At 0930 Wednesday morning we were safely moored in Las Palmas Marina on Gran Canaria.