Sail Horta, Azores to Madeira 25 to 30 Sept 2012

With Hurricane Nadine reforming and predicted to go first south and west but later to head back north and hit the Azores for a second time in a week or so time , we decided it would be a good idea to leave Horta on Faial and head east direction Madeira.
 

The Grib Files indicated that 25th September would be an excellent time to leave Horta as we would then be able to sail on a fine to beam reach the whole way. We really would have preferred to stay a few days in Ponta Delgada to say goodbye to our friends there but the forecast indicated that the high pressure area to the north west of the Azores would drift eastwards giving easterlies over the western Azores making sailing SE rather too close to the wind.

So we hastily converted Dutch Link from Marina to sailing mode, removed the many mooring lines and at 1500hrs 25 September left Horta 
The Grib File prediction for the 1500hrs 25 September, the time we left Horta


Leaving Horta in a NE 4 Bft wind with 2 reefs in mainsail and a partially furled Genoa

Initially the wind was a pleasant 13 knots from the NE allowing us to sail on almost a beam reach

Approaching a cloud covered Pico

Passing the southern coast of Pico

Looking back at the peak of Pico just appearing out of the cloud

Sunset

We were lucky enough to be sailing a few days before full moon so we were sailing in a super silvery light

The south coast of Sao Miguel

We had planned on downloading grib files en route via our Iridium phone - however, there was a problem with our system so we could not download them. The thought of making this trip without updated grib files with Nadine lurking close by nearly caused us to stop at Ponta Delgada which our course took us close to. However, a phone call to Carlos in the Ponta Delgada Marina Office solved the problem as he confirmed that Nadine was keeping to its previously forecast track and that the winds for the next few days on our track would stay in the NNE/NE. So we continued on our way to Madeira.

Another lovely sunset

After coming out of the lee of Sao Miguel, the seas became quite rough, (rougher than would be normal for the wind strength) and as we were staying high so as to have a better angle to the wind as we approached Madeira, the boat movement was quite unpleasant with waves breaking frequently over the deck and spray even sometimes coming  into the cockpit  

At around 0400 hrs 27 September we were well clear of the rocky reefs of the Formigas islands and decided we could free off and set a course for Madeira.

The actual conditions luckily agreed with those forecast in the grib files which we had downloaded before leaving 

Despite the water temperature rising to a pleasant 25 degrees C, the force 4 to 6 Bft N/NNE wind had quite a chill and we were dressed accordingly

Although we could not download gribfiles, our trusty Satcom-C system gave us 6 hourly updates on the position and predicted track of Nadine

and a brief summary forecast of the wind strength and direction for the sea areas we passed throuh

The actual conditions continued to agree with those forecast in the grib files which we had downloaded before leaving 

For the last two days of the trip we encountered small rain squalls which were clearly visible for some time before they hit us

Typically as a squall approached, the wind would increase from around 15 to 20 to 25 knots then we would be headed as the wind dropped to below 10 knots. After a few minutes the wind would then return to its previous N/NNE direction and strength

Friendly looking puffy clouds

another rain squall approaching

Another moonlit night

getting close - just 17.6 miles to go and still making over 6 knots

Madeira in view

getting closer

Ponta Parga Light house - the most westerly point of Madeira

the coast of Madeira close to Paul do Mar

Paul do Mar

Calhete

Lining up to enter Calhete Marina

Charlet showing narrow entrance to Calhete Marina

Dutch Link Safely moored in Calhete, SW coast of Madeira at 1045hrs UTC 30 September 2012

Total Distance sailed from Horta to Calhete 670 nautical miles 

in 4 days 20 hours, 

average speed 5.8 knots, 

motored 7 hours (mainly in the lees of Pico, Sao Miguel and Madeira)
For the whole trip we had 2 reefs in the mainsail and varying amounts of furling in the Genoa.
The wind varied direction only from NE to North, except in the brief rain squalls with a strength  of 4 to 6 Bft with maximum gusts around 25 knots

View of the Calhete marina in the distance with the protected swimming area in the foreground - had several very pleasant swims there so far

Hike Faial from Horta Marina to Monte Carneiro 22 Sept 2012

By the afternoon of 22 September, Tropical Storm Nadine had passed and we felt we needed a walk. So walked from the marina eastwards along the water front until we reached the Rua da Vista Alegre where we started our climb to Monte Carneiro

Passed this Spirito Santo Emperium

 and this huge Dragon Tree

 Stopped at the Miradour Vista Alegre for views of the new ferry terminal

 with Pico in the background

 and the ravine below

 After 1 1/2 hours mainly climbing on roads, reached the top of the Monte Carneiro

 

 which gave superb all round views

 Unfortunately the Caldeira was in the cloud

 Retracing our steps, had views of the north coast including the commercial area near the power station on the airport road

 around about here Mike was attacked by the only bee we had seen all day, which decided to commit suicide and sting Mike just above the right eyebrow

 Jeannette managed to remove the sting. A passing car gave us a lift to the Horta Hospital. However, they wanted 115 Euros cash to see a Doctor which we did not have on us. So having decided that Mike was not allergic to bee stings, we just walked back to the boat.

The next morning Mike's eye was swollen closed.

An eyewash with Optrex helped to reduce the swelling remarkably so after about 3 days the eye was back to normal.

Tropical Storm Nadine 20 to 21 Sept 2012

As stated in the previous Blog, we left Velas on Sao Jorge earlier than planned due to the expected arrival of Hurricane Nadine. We considered that Horta on Faial would be a safer harbour in such a storm.

On the 15the Spetember, this was NOAA's prediction, with Nadine heading straight for Faial and the other Azores Islands in

 Initially, the predicted swell direction was from the SW, very good direction for Horta Marina as it would be protected by the Monte da Guia . Unfortunately, at the height of the storm, the swell was predicted to come from the NE, the worst direction for Horta.

On 18 September had a stroll to the south facing Porto Pim Bay close to Monte da Guia and indeed big swells from Nadine were rolling in

Please click on arrow to play video clip of the SW swells breaking in the normally tranquill Porto Pim Bay  - unfortunately will not work on Ipads

 

 Nadine was expected to hit us on the night of 20 September. Everyone in the marina was on the internet checking the Grib File, Passage Weather, NOAA Hurricane Prediction and other websites every couple of hours to get te latest forecasts. More and more mooring ropes were being added to their boats and anchors laid as an added precaution. Dutch Link was no exception.

The Horta Marina staff were very conscientious and helpful, checking boats 24 hours a day and attaching their own extra lines to boats they thought would need them plus laying anchors for boats if required - very commendable.

 Ropes were secured around the substantial pillars which kept the pontoons in place - just in case the pontoons broke free

We were lucky to have pillars to attach to - two at the front and two at the stern

 The pillars on starboard at our Stern and Bow were particularly reassuring as they would keep us off the pontoon finger in the predicted NEerlies and prevent our fenders from bursting.

 Finally the night of 20th September arrived - the latest predictions luckily showed that Nadine had been downgraded to a Tropical Storm and that we could expect 45 plus knots from the NE and the swell would be around 4 meters from the NE, the worst direction for Horta

 

 Grib Files for 00300 hours 21 September

 The night of 20/21 September was a tense night on Dutch Link, and all the other boats in the marina. The wind was above 40 knots most of the night with gusts up to 50 knots.

We tried to sleep but with the swell working its way into our part of the marina, the boat was rolling and lurching all night. Also we were rather concerned that the waves would break over the low marina wall at High Water in the early hours of the morning.

So we gave up and played Rummycube all night instead!

 The next morning looking NE from our marina wall

Please click on arrow to play video clip of the marina the morning after the storm had passed - unfortunately will not work on Ipads 

 The chartlets below show the problem with a NE swell

Looking North to the main part of the marina, tucked behind the large harbour wall - much quieter in a NEerly swell

After hitting us, Nadine went south and later eastwards towards Madeira where it weakened. However, a few days later it turned back west and strengthened yet again into a Hurricane. The latest NOAA prediction as of 1 October is for it to once more head north and hit the Azores for a second time - three hurricanes in one year is a bit much for the Azores when the previous one was in 2006.