Sail Lajes do Pico to Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel 20-21 August 2012

Unfortunately the Grib Files indicated that , if we wanted to be have a chance of sailing to Ponta Delgada this week we would have to leave Lajes do Pico on Monday 20 Augustus as the wind would move to the East from Tuesday onwards.

So we started the lengthier than usual process of  removing our mooring ropes (15 in total). 

By 1130am were heading out of the harbour, following in the wake of Hurricane Gordon which, as can be seen on the below Grib File for 1200hrs, was at that time still roaring over Ponta Delgada

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 Motoring in the lee of Pico

As we left the wind shadow of the island, the wind increased to a pleasant NNE4. The skies above us were clear with a band of low cloud on the Eastern horizon ahead of us - presumably the tail end of Hurricane Gordon which only 5 hours earlier was over Ponta Delgada, our destination 135 Nmiles away.

 

There was a residual swell of about 3 meter height but as it was a long swell it was not uncomfortable.

Unfortunately, after about 4 hours of sailing the wind became more easterly and variable so, not being interested in a slow beat, we motor sailed the rest of the trip.

Dawn is breaking 

 Beautiful sunrise over Sao Miguel

 Sao Miguel clearly visible

 After a pleasant but noisy (engine) trip, we arrived in Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel at midday on Tuesday 21 August  - total trip time just over 24 hours.

 Dutch Link safely moored in Ponta Delgada Marina

 Talking to yachts that had been here during the Hurricane, they all felt they had been let of lightly - there had been quite a swell in the marina but this had been reduced as the ferry had stayed in port which acts as an additional breakwater and the swell and wind turned from the East to the NEast - a much better direction for Ponta Delgada. Also the maximum wind speed was only around 50 knots - still a lot, but much more manageable than the 85 knots which the Hurricane was delivering earlier. One could tell they had had an anxious night, however by the spiderwebs of mooring ropes  to keep them off the pontoons.

(the marina is less than ideally constructed as the ferry jetty looks as though it should provide shelter from an easterly swell. However, the jetty is supported on concrete pillars with large gaps between which, unless there is a ferry on the dock, allows any swell to proceed into the marina more or less unimpeded)

Hurricane Gordon 19 August 2/12

We have never really considered the Azores to be a hurricane prone area. So we were somewhat surprised when what seemed like a normal low pressure

 

 started to look on the grib files more and more like a revolving storm.
 

 As the days went by the feature got a name, Gordon, and became a Tropical Storm
 
and then as it got yet closer it became a category 2 Hurricane heading straight for the Azores.

However, the track forecast by NOAA indicated that it would pass south of Pico, the island where we were moored. 

 On Pico, the wind would be less than 20kts and from the East, a good direction for the Lajes do Pico marina.

 NOAA prediction for wind strengths above 50 knots - Sao Miguel and Santa Maria clearly in the danger zone

 The resulting swell according to Passage Weather website would be around 4 meters from the SWest - also a good direction for us. Hence we decided to stay put.

Sao Miguel and Santa Maria would not be so lucky  - the eye of the hurricane was predicted to pass over them by 0600hrs 20 August with wind and swell initially from the east - the worst possible direction for Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel.

However, two days before the Hurricane was due to be due south of us, the harbour authorites based in Horta issued the advice for all yachts in Lajes do Pico and Sao Jorge to move to Horta on Faial.
We considered their advice, one yacht left Lajes do Pico for Horta but returned as progress was poor against headwinds and swell.
So, as the weather forecasting in this area is very good and put the track well to the south of us, plus the local fisherman considering that Lajes do Pico would be safe in the predicted conditions, plus I, (Mike) had the flu and was not feeling well enough for a tough passage unless absolutely necessary, we decided to ignore the advice and stay.
The harbour authorities required us to sign a paper which made us liable for any damage we might cause to their harbour facilities - a bit daunting but by then there was no way we were going to move.

We then prepared as best we could for the possibility that the track of the hurricane shifted more northerly than forecast by adding extra lines - 15 in total (normally 5 !)

 including a 40 meter rope from the bow across the harbour to a stone jetty to keep the bow off the pontoon finger.

Luckily we had thanks to Paul of Picomatica, very good WiFi so could keep continuously  informed of Gordon's progress and the latest predictions. 

2100hrs Sunday night, Gordon's closest point to us, came and went and there was hardly a whisper of wind and no significant swell and a beautiful sunset

 The peak of Pico looking majestic in a pink glow - red sky at night ... shepherds warning?

Went to bed and woke up next morning after one of the calmest nights we have had on Pico, to a calm, sunny day - very very thankful that Gordon had not had a sudden change of  direction during the night.

 even the often shy cloud shrouded Pico was clear

We are even more impressed with the weather forecasting abilities these days.

Information received later from boats who were in Ponta Delgada indicated that they had been let off lighter than expected - the eye was slightly south of them and the winds had reduced to just under 50 kts with wind and swell changing from East to North East which is much better for Ponta Delgada.

Have looked up Azores Hurricane statistics on Wikipedia - the links of the hurricanes that have hit the Azores are listed below - click on the link to go to the writeup.

1973	Hurricane Fran (1973)
1976	Hurricane Emmy
1992	Hurricane Bonnie (1992)
1995	Hurricane Tanya (1995)
1997	Hurricane Erika (1997)
2003	Tropical Storm Ana (2003)
2005	2005 Azores subtropical storm
2006	Hurricane Gordon (2006)
2009	Tropical Storm Grace (2009)
2012	Hurricane Gordon

So one can see that whilst not exactly Hurricane prone, the Azores have had several hurricanes over the past years.

Amazingly the last Hurricane to hit the Azores was also called Gordon and hit in 2006, 6 years ago - hopefully it will be at least 6 years before the next one!

Sail Horta to Lajes do Pico 14 August 2012

Left Horta marina 14 August 2012 and headed SE for the southern tip of Pico en route to Lajes do Pico on the south coast of Pico.

As the wind was a NWerly 5 and we were on a run and it was only 20 nMiles to the marina, we decided to sail only on the Genny - fully expecting to have to motor once in the wind shadow of Pico.

A cloud covered Pico

 the wind freshened to a 5/6 Bft and we were making 5 to 7 knots SOG

 rounding Pico.

After about an hour the wind became somewhat variable and the Genny was flogging in the swell so we furled it in and motored. The wind became quite gusty under Pico reaching 30 knots at times.

On approaching the small marina of Lajes do Pico, the wind was steady at about 25knots - not ideal for manoeuvering in tight spots.

The outer North / South harbour wall

The Navionics chart on the Ipad proved very handy on our approach through the narrow channel

Close up of outer harbour wall

 I messed up the mooring as I understood that we would have to moor on the reception pontoon as the marina was full - so unlike our usual procedure, we had fenders and ropes only on starboard. So when someone indicated we had to go to a berth which needed fenders and ropes on port we were not ready. However, there was no time to rearrange so I tried to turn the boat into the wind so as to enter the berth in reverse. With the strong following wind and very little space to turn, this manoeuvre proved to be impossible. To cut a long story shorter, we ended up on the hammerhead of the next pontoon . Unfortunately this was the domain of the many whale watching ribs who were not amused. With the help of our very friendly Harbour Master, Jose, and some discussion, we agreed that we could stay put until the wind died down a bit later in the afternoon

 Lajes do Pico at low water with the rocky shoals to the north of the marina clearly visible

Dutch Link safely moored in one of the only two berths available for our size of boat

The narrow buoyed channel between the harbour wall and the rocky reefs

(Chartlet from Anne Hammicks Pilot Book for the Atlantic Islands)

We are happy to say that the WiFi here is excellent and free thanks to Picomatica. Initially we had problems with the registration so called the help number. Within 5 minutes of calling, Paul, the owner of the company, was on board tweeking the system and indicating where to point our directional antenna - fantastic service.

Hike Pico PR5PIC Criacao Velha Vineyards 6 August 2012

Weather forecast looked good and legs had recovered from Pico Peak hike so caught the 0900hrs ferry from Horta to Madalena on Pico. Ferry arrived well in time in time to catch the 1000hrs southern circuit bus from the ferry terminal to the start of Hike PR5PIC on the West coast of Pico. This hike gives one a tour of the Criacao Velha Vineyards. Pico has many vineyards around the island and the resulting wines are prized among the Azores islands - we particularly like their Atlantis Curral wine

 At 1020hrs the  bus dropped us off at  the turnoff to Porto do Calhau, 1.2 kms down a tarmacced road

 Porto do Calhau, the official start of our hike

 The usual Information Board at the start of the 8km hike

 Porto do Calhau used to be used to ship grapes to Faial

 Faial in the background

 By 1100hrs we were at Pocinho, a small bathing beach

 We had seen some vineyards right from the start of the walk - here there were also Fig trees in between the vines

 The vineyards are composed of low stone walls enclosing areas of around 4 meters square. The idea of these ancient walls is to protect the vines from wind and sea salt. Also, as the ground is naturally covered in stones and boulders, they are the result of clearing the ground for cultivation

 This field was a bit unusual, instead of stone walls, the vines were trained on suspended wires.

 Although the majority of the produce grown is vines, there was quite some maize grown

 Bathing rock pool

 vines and more vines

 the coast here is formed of lava

In places there is evidence of tracks worn in the lava by the wheels of ox drawn wagons used to transport the grapes

 At intervals, ramps have been cut into the rock to launch small boats to transport grapes to Faial

 

 Perfect spot for lunch and a Kindle break, Faial in the background

 a detour into an area of intense vine cultivation

 one of the many stone huts dotted among the vineyards which are used for general storage

 the trail took us past an old windmill

 views from the windmill

 The trail ends within easy walking distance of Madalena.

Caught the 1600hrs ferry back to Horta after a very pleasant relaxed walk through the vinyards.