dutchlink: October 2012

24 October we went to the old market of Funchal

above the entrance to the fish hall is a tiled picture of a market scene with some men carrying the black Baracuda-like Madeiran Espada fish

there were many of deep water Espada fish for sale

Had a coffee at the market cafe while waiting for the rain to cease

then walked over to the cable car

for a trip up the hill to Monte

From the exit from the cable car we walked the trail to the Levada dos Tornos which goes to Camache.
Due to the heavy rainfall the waterfalls were in full flow

after about 30 minutes we reached the Levada as it emerged from a low tunnel

Due to the rain, the Levada was overflowing in places

returning to Monte - renegociating the route through the fallen trees

the church at Monte

visbility not too good - can just see the cruise ships in Funchal Harbour

Monte

A bus returns several sledge drivers

The wicker sledges were in great demand

Paid our 15 euro per person fee and enjoyed the crazy ride down the steep road

back on Dutch Link for a game of Cartegena

25 October rented a car for a tour via Santana in the north east of the island

below are somewhat touristic versions of the traditional Madeira houses one sees in some of the rural areas

Drove up to the start of the hike to Pico Ruivo, the highest peak on Madeira. However we were not sufficiently warmly dressed for the cold and windy conditions so aborted.
see blog link below for this hike which we did in 2010
http://dutchlink.blogspot.pt/2010/07/achada-do-teixeira-to-b-das-encumeada.html

and walked part of the beautiful Caldeira Verde Levada trail
see blog link below for thids hike which we also did in 2010
http://dutchlink.blogspot.pt/2010/07/levada-caldeirao-verde-21-july-2010.html

passing many waterfalls on the way

26 October the weather improved so we drove to the Encumeada pass in the center of the island

view from Encumeada

and walked part of the Levada do Norte at Folhadal.

looking back to the Encumeada Pass

several Madeiran Chaffinches entertained us

here the levada emerges from a tunnel

which we explored for a hundred meters or so. A pretty moth was found on the tunnel wall

moth

back to the tunnel entrance

stopped at this convenient cafe at the start of the Levada walk

for elevenses with a view

continued to the northern side of the island

to the coastal town of Sao Vincente

after doing a few stretches

past vineyards

crossed a foot bridge at Sao Vincente to visit the extensive caves

the tour starts with a 3D video

then explores some 700 metrs of the 1.5 km network of volcanic pipes

afterwards had a picnic lunch on the stony beach at Sao Vincente

with views of the high cliffs of the northern coast

walked back to the car along an old path along the river

looking back at the strange little chapel carved into a rock in the middle of the river

drove from Sao Vincente westwards along the new coastal road, a large part of which is in tunnels in the cliffs

view of part of the old coastal road - no longer in use due to landslides such as this one close to the watefall

the small coastal town of Seixal

Seixal harbour

Jeannette could not resist doing a sun salutation on the diving board over the Seixal rock pool

another balancing act

Discovered the delights of the Eco Club - a funky cafe by the Seixal rock pool

the furniture was made from recycled waste - we sat in a sawn-off bath on old car tyres, the coffee tables were supported by old washing machine drums

the vivacious artist herself posed for a photo

the menu was printed on an old LP record

some other tables were made from old pallets

as were some of the settees

all in all a very special cafe

After leaving Seixal, we drove along the Via Rapido back to the south coast through some very long tunnels under the Ecumeada pass with the objective of seeing the Faja das Padras lift close to Cabo Girao on the south coast .

This cable lift is just for the staff of the restaurant over 400 meters below

click on below link to previous blog when we sailed past this lift

http://dutchlink.blogspot.pt/2011/11/motor-from-calhete-to-funchal-31.html

this is the top of the public lift

the public lift runs on rails bolted into the cliff face

can just see the lift car almost at the bottom of the cliff

view from top of lift

we had wanted to visit the nearby new Cabo Giroa viewing platform but this was closed as workmen were putting the final touches ready for the inaugural opening on Wednesday 30 October.

Afterwards stopped at the fishing village of Camara de Lobos - made famous as Sir Winston Churchill is painted here (we were disappointed to find that the restaurante named after him, which used to serve good food and had a superb view over the harbour, had closed down two years previously

rounded off the day with a very pleasant meal in the Santa Marie street in the old part of Funchal

followed by a nightcap at the Fado bar - Susana Andrade was one of the Fado singers that entertained us

27 October was also a fine day so we drove to the east of the island to do the hike to the Ponta de Sao Lourenco

Start of the hike

last time we did this hike, the soil was barren and red coloured - see below link to july 2010 blog
http://dutchlink.blogspot.pt/2010/07/sao-lourenco-madeira-22-july-2010.html
. Due to all the rain we have had lately, everywhere was green - the desert had indeed bloomed